Our experienced team of editors and researchers contributed to this article and tested it for accuracy and completeness.
The number of sources used in this article is 30. You will find a list of them at the bottom of the page.
The wikiHow content management team carefully monitors the work of editors to ensure that each article meets our high quality standards.
When the fretboard warps the guitar, there is a partial breakdown of its musical tones, while the sound produced by the guitar may rattle or become blurry. The causes of the curvature can be the effect of heat, humidity, time, as well as the pressure that the strings put on the neck, and other factors. In order for the guitar to sound as it should again, it is necessary to straighten its neck. Professional tool repair will cost you several thousand rubles, if not more. But fortunately, you can try to repair the guitar yourself.
- repair articles
- 13.09.2012 16:28
There are two directions of thought for guitar masters, some believe that the neck of the guitar should be perfectly flat, while others that the neck of the guitar should have a deflection, call it a saddle. Form this faithful guitar neck deflection not so easy.
The point of this tiny deflection is that the strings, especially on the bass in the first positions, do not overshadow the frets. Those. it should look like raised frets in the first positions, and starting fret from the 5th - the fretboard looks almost like a straight line. The deflection is small, I do it without accurate measurements, some pair, three dozen. Talk is about 0.2-0.5mm. if applied, something even to the neck of the guitar. Further in the article, when there will be the word “exactly” with respect to the neck, then keep in mind that given this deflection, if you join a batch of rigged vultures.
It seems that there are many ways to straighten the guitar neck, but in fact there is only one way to straighten - this is to straighten the lining plane with a planer and lapping, i.e. cutting and sanding her body. If you have an anchor, then you are either not a classic or a classic exclusive. I don’t see, by the way, anything wrong with the anchors for the classical guitar. It’s just a tradition not to make an anchor in a classic. I doubt very much that the anchor negatively affects the sound.
First you need to determine how much your neck is bent. You need to look and evaluate with strings taut and tuned according to the tuning fork so that the bar is loaded with a standard load. We remember about the introduction, where it is written that a small sub-deflection is good and not evil. Also, if you don’t feel discomfort when playing, it might not change anything !?
How to determine the lead amount of the guitar neck?
Having fixed the guitar body at your feet or on the table, you need to, by holding the head and the region of the first fret, not very much, imitate the tension of the strings, bending the neck. Look energized along the lining and achieve, taking off a little bit with the help of a loop and lapping, so that it is energized, the neck becomes smooth. The whole difficulty lies precisely in the force of tension. Feeling comes only with practice. But I can immediately say, do not bend with all your might, slightly, but not quite sluggishly. If the bar is removable, with a bolt, then you can hold the heel with one hand and the head with the other, bend and have enough strength in your hands.
String tension is important. One thing is weak tension, about 35 kg., And another thing is extrasilic, about 80 kg. Mostly normal tension is used, about 50 kg.
It is with taut strings that the neck should be flat (tucked). It cannot be that the strings are pulled over a completely flat neck and it does not bend, at least slightly. Only thick and uncomfortable vultures or made of high-quality wood with an extra hard lining, like black or ebony, are almost not bent. What neck do you have?
The vulture gradually bends from the first fret to the ninth, tenth, since the base of the heel further begins. Further after the 13th fret, the lowering of the lining is possible, because the deck bends insufficiently reinforced with rips. Or on the 12th fret, the pad suddenly rises, forming an angle. This is rather a complex problem in the knot of the base of the neck - dumpling - the body of the guitar.
It is necessary to evaluate how much wood needs to be removed so that the lining becomes even. Sometimes there are especially severe cases when the body lining is practically not enough. But be sure there is no other way than destroying the superfluous. The heart bleeds when it is necessary to cut off the body of the lining of valuable rocks, for example, to transfer the rosewood to the shavings and dust, abundantly irrigating it with tears.
There are two directions in which you can straighten. Straighten mainly until the ninth fret and mainly after the ninth. What does this affect?
This affects the height of the strings, that is, if you want to raise the strings, you need to remove the ninth fret, if you need to lower it, then you need to remove before the ninth. Estimate the height of your bone on the stand and decide whether you need to lower it or replace it with a higher one.
The bone should be approximately 2 mm. come out of its groove. Accordingly, on the sixth string, it is 1 - 1.5 mm higher. relative to the first. The distance from the deck to the sixth string should ideally not exceed 16mm.
That is, removing the cover you can further adjust the height of the strings. Sometimes there is no other way to repair the guitar when the strings are lying, and there is nowhere to raise a bone, but there is something to remove in the overlay from the 12th to the 19th fret.
The bridgehead for action is ready. Now you need to carefully pull out the frets. And here is a dirty and crooked stick free of frets - you need to make a flat and smooth neck.
The wood is very hard and the planer licks it or lifts it hard. Then there remains a cycle and sandpaper. In any case, after the planer you need to work with them. Because you need to take small steps to the optimal size. The cycle takes off very accurately and evens out the surface. Lapping sandpaper is needed mainly for alignment. Although, if there is no planer and cycles, you can work by grinding, changing the number of the skin from large to small. But time and effort will take much more. And it’s not so easy to work as a lighter without experience, because a person is not a machine that moves a tool with constant pressure in one plane. Only experience will teach the nuances. I advise you to try on a kamikaze stick. After you learn how to remove chips, learn how to complete the task, i.e. set the task to straighten and straightened. They set the task to bend the edge 1.5mm, simulating the work with the bar - and bent.
What should be done with the vulture?
It is necessary to remove the lining body from the ninth fret towards the head, gradually until the first fret. From the ninth fret to the nineteenth, the pad should be flat. These three lines in practice are quite a complicated process, do not take the time to train.
First you need to make the neck absolutely flat, only then start to pre-empt, bending from the 9th to the 1st. You need to use it to determine the level evenness.
And constantly look along the neck, from left to right, adjusting the eye to see even and uneven.
After you consider that everything is ready, it will be necessary to deepen cuts under the frets to the desired depth. First you need to measure the frets that you will insert. There should be no visible scratches on the surface. Now everything is ready for setting frets.